My grandfather's 1918 silver Rolex watch with
fixed wire lugs on one of my straps.
The Significance of the Red 12
Many watches from the era that we are interested in have the 12 on the dial picked out in red like my grandfather's, pictured left, and sometimes (more rarely) blue. Why is this? I have never come across any documentary evidence about the "red 12" to suggest that it is anything other than a simple decorative styling or fashion thing.
The most plausible explanation that I have heard is that in the earliest days of wristwatches, it wasn't standard as to where the 12 was, at the now-usual "12 O'Clock" position, 90° anti-clockwise from the winding crown, (which is convenient to wear on the left wrist) or adjacent to the winding crown as on pocket watches, or in some intermediate position between the two, as is seen occasionally. Many early wrist watches were simply pocket watches either held on the wrist in leather cup attached to a strap, or with a chain or strap attached directly to the case. Because of this they didn't all follow the now accepted design of a wrist watch with regards to orientation of the dial and location of the crown. I have seen transitional wrist watches which, when strapped to the wrist, would have the 12 where we would expect to find the 3 today. So the 12 was picked out in red or blue in order that you could locate it more easily. But I have still not got a contemporaneous reference to confirm this explanation.
I have seen sellers puff up a red or blue 12 as if it means that it is a "military" watch, or is really significant for some unspecified reason. But I don't think it is - although if I were selling a watch I would certainly play the game and mention it! After all, It is very easy to paint the 12 red or blue, so anyone could do it on the cheapest of watches - there are no "barriers to entry" in applying a red or blue 12 to a dial, unlike say, making a fine quality precision movement. In reality, it is the design, appearance, condition, and ultimately the quality of the movement, that determines the value and historical significance of a watch, not the colour of some paint on the dial!
I have reproduced below some of the explanations that I have received to date. However, if you know different; or have any questions, suggestions, or comments, then please drop me a line at You don't need to copy the email address, just click on it. I look forward to hearing from you!
Regards - David
Copyright © David Boettcher 2006/2007/2008 All Rights Reserved.
Thomas Krueger - private collector
My speculation on the red 12: some makers did that because it wasn't get standard as to where the 12 was, at the now-usual position or by the crown, as on pocket watches. So, they made the 12 red so you could find it easier. I've seen ebay sellers assert that red 12 meant military, but there were too many watches, lady's, even, that had a red 12, so I've never thought so.
Mike Benson - Holben's Fine Watches
The only thing I have heard that is most likely the true reason for the RED 12 (they also did blue 12s as well) was to allow the wearer to view the dial and have a QUICK reference point to where the 12 was. Keep in mind that when the wristwatch was first introduced for men in the WWI era many gentleman were used to looking at the crown to find midnight/noon as most pocket watches had the crown at the top of the watch, not at the 3 (except some hunters case watches). So for the first few years the colored 12 made it easy to identify where the top of the dial was.
Private Collector
Re red 12's on supposed trench watches, I'm very dubious and haven't found any evidence to support the fact that the 12 earmarks them as military. We've just toured the Somme and all the other famous battlefields and cemeteries and only in Ypres museum did I see two genuine 'trench' watches. One had a loose criss-cross guard on it but no red 12 like a Buren I have with a large face. The other had a plain front without a guard and a red 12. I have six 'trench' watches and even though all are dated between 1914 and 1918 I can n ever be sure of their past use. The wife tells me they are women's watches which doesn't help! One has a built in circular hours aperture guard and has a man's name engraved on the case back. The man's name is W.Aycliffe so I looked on Ancetry.com for the names of those issued with WW1 medals and found four William Aycliffes and I think three Walter Aycliffes. My watch is 1916 but all the men's records are not complete so I'll never know!
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